FAQ

Beal is the only manufacturer of the BEALSTONE® product range and has registered the name. We advise you to beware of imitations and counterfeits, as they do not meet the same quality requirements.
BEAL INTERNATIONAL products, and especially the MORTEX®, BEALSTONE® and CAPILASIL® products are protected products. They meet strict quality standards for which BEAL INTERNATIONAL guarantees results. BEAL INTERNATIONAL is the sole manufacturer of its products.

The products are distributed by BEAL INTERNATIONAL and its distributors (official and unofficial). The points of sale are available on www.beal.be

Many competing companies seek to use the reputation of BEAL INTERNATIONAL and its products to mislead the consumer, not hesitating to use deceptive, misleading or disparaging means to market products of much lower quality or without authorisation. Please remain vigilant with regard to any counterfeiting or imitation and, if necessary, inform the management by e-mail via info@beal.be.

The price of the BEALSTONE coating varies between €150 and €200/m² excl. vat (€180 to €225/m² incl. VAT) for a poured thickness of 11mm and a finished thickness of 7mm.

This indicative price applies to a coating formula with basic aggregates (marble) and for a surface area of approximately 100m² with 4 peripheral walls (without obstacles, stairs, etc.).

If the products are kept in their original, well-sealed packaging and according to the storage conditions recommended in the technical data sheets, you can reuse them for another job. This is why BEAL sells neutral, uncoloured products.

No. We can never guarantee products that are not part of our brand because we do not manage their production control.
Incompatibilities can arise directly during mixing, during installation and long after installation.

A flexible perimeter sealant (e.g. between walls and floors, floors and joinery, etc.) of the MS polymer type (suitable for natural stone and glass) is recommended to compensate for movement due to expansion of the material. The use of a backing foam is recommended.

These flexible seals do not leave any marks on the BEALSTONE® coating or other materials, unlike conventional silicone. MS Polymer offers the advantage of being watertight. This type of seal is used for joints that are subject to movement (expansion, etc.).

The flexible seal must be applied before oil protection.
It is best to stop the BEALSTONE® coating at a distance of 3 mm from the shower tray using a stop profile and then filling the gap with an MS Polymer seal.

A MS polymer seal must also be fitted around the water inlets (there are no special round edge profiles available for this application).

The soft seal must be checked and replaced if necessary.

These 3 types of joints are perfectly suited to withstand conventional cleaning.

Yes.
In any case, cleaning is necessary to ensure that the surface is clean and sound.
It is recommended to completely remove the protection present on the BEALSTONE® coating.
In case of protection by impregnation, the material must be sanded down to the penetration depth of the protection.
Make the surface rough to create allow adherence on the old BEALSTONE® coating.
The thickness to be removed will depend on the space available for applying a new coat.
The application of RESIDUR primer is not compulsory, but will facilitate the application of the new layer of BEALSTONE® coating.
The technical data sheet for each product must be carefully followed during application.

Always work on a stable, clean and dust-free substrate.

Glass fibre or our BEALTEX reinforcing fabric does not offer a full guarantee of results, as it will only be able to withstand very slight movements.
It is the fabric (reinforcing fabric) that will stretch by absorbing the movement of the substrate. The BEALSTONE® product will then experience tensions which may cause several micro cracks instead of a large one at the location of the initial crack in the substrate.
It is always difficult to treat living cracks without “modifying the substrate”. For this reason, the expansion joints in the substrate must always be respected by creating an expansion joint in the BEALSTONE® coating.

The BEALSTONE® coating has not been designed for this purpose.
BEAL does not provide any guarantee for this type of application, which is not covered by the technical data sheets and installation protocol. However, studies are currently being carried out on the possible use of the BEALSTONE® coating in swimming pools.
Tests have been carried out successfully.

Although the BEALSTONE® product is waterproof in its mass, it behaves like most natural stones (microporous on the surface). Therefore, a protective finish for stains (wine, grease, etc.) is recommended indoors: oil, oil-wax, water repellent, etc.

See our advices for protections.

In all cases, we recommend that you carry out tests and samples beforehand in order to validate the appropriate finish and protection.

When resistant stains appear on a substrate and in particular on the BEALSTONE® product, the capillary suction system can be tried.
After attempting to clean with a soft brush and soapy water :

1. Moisten the stain for at least 10 minutes with lukewarm water.

2. Remove the water.

3. Moisten again.

4. Place several sheets of absorbent paper one at a time, one on top of the other, flat on the stain, overlapping by 10 cm. 10 to 20 sheets may be needed.

5. Moisten all the layers well and expel the air so that the sheets of paper are flat and in perfect contact with the surface.

6. Allow to dry naturally without intervening. Do not create a draught.

7. As the surface dries, the pores of the paper open up and the capillaries exert suction which tends to pull the dirt from the substrate and transfer it to the sheets of paper.

8. Remove the paper layers after they have dried completely.

9. Check the result.

10. Repeat if necessary.

If the stain comes from a small open cavity in the BEALSTONE® mineral product and the protection has not treated this cavity, the system will not be efficient as the suction can only concentrate on this small cavity and not on the entire stain.

Repeat the operation if necessary.

Yes, this type of traditional heating technique, with screed and insulation, is fully compatible with the BEALSTONE coating. As with other types of coating, precautions must be taken to ensure correct operation, with regard to the substrate and temperature settings.
Substrate
For application, the screed must be dry and clean (see technical data sheet on www.bealinternational.com) and the heating must be switched off 4 days before application.
When the substrate is made up of materials of a different nature, which are not stable and/or have joints (e.g. tiles, OPAL system, etc.), it is imperative to take the necessary precautions to avoid, as far as possible, any movement due to expansion, differences in surface and internal stresses and shearing, i.e. to choose :
– Reinforcing net or reinforced textile mat at junctions
– Reinforcement net to be embedded in the first technical layer.
– Special textile mortar adhesion mat in the corners
– Uncoupling membranes over the entire surface

Temperatures
As with conventional underfloor heating, the maximum temperature should be 28-30°C.
Start-up (in steps of 2 to 3°C per 48 hours above the substrate temperature) once the BEALSTONE® product is completely dry (minimum 7 days). After the heating system has been switched off, it is always put back into service by temperature increase in steps of 2 to 3°C / 48 hours.

If for any reason (e.g. changing the colour of the coating or carrying out a repair) it is necessary to remove this oiled aspect, the best solution is to remove it mechanically (provided the oil is completely dry) by abrading the treated surface with a diamond disc (grain size between 100 and 150).

(You can go directly to point 3 if the oil is very hard).

1. Clean the surface with turpentine and a white cotton cloth to remove as much oil as possible.
2. Use a vaporetto style steam cleaner to try again to remove as much oil residue as possible.
3. Abrade/sand the surface so that there are no oil residue left.
Please note that if any traces of oil remain, the protection will not adhere to these areas, which will give a different look and the shower will not be waterproof. It is therefore necessary to make sure that everything is removed, which is a rather delicate operation.
4. Vacuum and clean the surface thoroughly to remove all traces of dust.
5. After complete drying, apply the chosen protection according to the method recommended by Beal.
Reservation: after point 3 traces of well dried and hardened oil may remain throughout the surface. The varnish should in principle be able to stick to it, but we have no test in this respect.

If the BEALSTONE® product is structured and not perfectly flat, it will not be possible to remove all the oil from the small cavities without attacking the last layer of BEALSTONE® product.

We therefore recommend abrading the entire surface until a perfectly flat surface is obtained, without open pores.

The abraded surface and the direct environment must be cleaned and dusted thoroughly.

The surface will be treated, according to the installation protocol, with the chosen protection.
If fresh oil is present, tests can be carried out with turpentine.

If for any reason (e.g. changing the colour of the coating or carrying out a repair) it is necessary to remove this oil-repellent aspect, the best solution is to remove it mechanically (provided the oil-repellent is completely dry) by abrading the treated surface with a diamond disc (grain size between 100 and 150).

(You can go directly to point 3 if the oil-repellent is very hard).

1. Clean the surface with turpentine and a white cotton cloth to remove as much oil-repellent as possible.
2. Use a vaporetto style steam cleaner to try again to remove as much oil-repellent residue as possible.
3. Abrade/sand the surface so that there are no oil-repellent residue left.
Please note that if any traces of oil-repellent remain, the varnish will not adhere to these areas, and the shower will not be waterproof. It is therefore necessary to make sure that everything is removed, which is a rather delicate operation.
4. Vacuum and clean the surface thoroughly to remove all traces of dust.
5. After complete drying, apply the chosen protection according to the method recommended by Beal.
Reservation: after point 3, traces of well dried and hardened oil-repellent may remain throughout the surface. The varnish should in principle be able to stick to it, but we have no test in this respect.

If the BEALSTONE® product is structured and not perfectly flat, it will not be possible to remove all the oil-repellent from the small cavities without attacking the last layer of BEALSTONE® product.

We therefore recommend abrading the entire surface until a perfectly flat surface is obtained, without open pores.

The abraded surface and the direct environment must be cleaned and dusted thoroughly.

The surface will be treated, according to the installation protocol, with the chosen protection.
If fresh oil-repellent is present, tests can be carried out with turpentine.

Beal is the only manufacturer of the MORTEX® range of products and has registered the name. We advise you to beware of imitations and counterfeits, as they do not meet the same quality requirements.
BEAL INTERNATIONAL products, and in particular the MORTEX®, BEALSTONE® and CAPILASIL® products are protected products. They meet strict quality requirements for which BEAL INTERNATIONAL is committed to guaranteeing results. BEAL INTERNATIONAL is the sole manufacturer of its products.

The products are distributed by BEAL INTERNATIONAL and its distributors (official and unofficial). The points of sales are available on www.beal.be

Many competing companies seek to use the reputation of BEAL INTERNATIONAL and its products to mislead the consumer, not hesitating to use deceptive, misleading or disparaging means to market products of much lower quality or without authorisation. Please remain carefull with regard to any counterfeiting or imitation and, if necessary, inform the management by e-mail via the address info@beal.be.

Caption texts (from top to bottom according to the layers of the diagrams).

NB: MC = MORTEX COLOR

Technical system: inside and outside

– 3rd finishing layer (optional) in MC 2- F1 or F2 (inside only) or MC2-N (inside and outside)
– 2nd technical layer MC2-N
– 1st technical layer MC2-N
– Adhesion primer (inside only)
Resipox W might be used outside
– Substrate

Semi-technical system: inside

– 2nd finishing layer (optional) in MC 2- F1 or F2 or MC2-N
– 1st technical layer MC2-N
– Adhesion primer
– Substrate

Decorative system

– 2nd finishing layer in MC 2-N or F1 or F2 or F3 or F4
– 1st finishing layer in MC 2-N or F1 or F2 or F3 or F4
– Adhesion primer
– Substrate

 

See the price list

*For classic work of a minimum of 50 m². Smaller jobs are subject to a fixed price. Ref price: Belgian market.
Price of goods: the price estimate does not include the finish (MORTEX COLOR 2 F) and takes into account the average price of the protections.

If the products are kept in their original, well-sealed packaging and according to the storage conditions recommended in the technical data sheets, you can re-use them for another job. This is why BEAL sells neutral, uncoloured products.

No. We can never guarantee products foreign to our brand for the simple and good reason that we do not control their manufacturing process.

Incompatibilities may arise directly during mixing, during their application and long after their application.

Yes, as long as the POOL application systems are stricly repected. Please contact our technical department for this.

For a varnish to be efficient, it must be applied according to the rules of art and the prescriptions of the technical data sheets available on www.bealinternational.com .
Damages on a scratched varnished substrate can be equivalent to that of an unprotected substrate. Stains in these areas may be difficult or even impossible to remove.
The technical data sheet of each product (available on www.bealinternational.com) must scrupulously be observed during application.
In order to obtain effective results, it is necessary to :
– apply the protection on a clean and dust-free surface and wait until it completely dries,
– apply the varnishes with suitable brushes and rollers and regularly cross each pass, lightening the pressure put on the tool crescendo.
– on a structured and/or open-pored support, tapping with an “ad hoc” brush is imperative to make the varnish penetrate to the bottom of the cavities formed by the pores. If this work is not carried out in this way, water and grease will penetrate into these cavities, will be picked up by capillary action and will reveal a stain that is difficult or even impossible to remove even under the chosen protection.

If there are stains on a MORTEX® varnish coating, they are most probably due to the penetration of dirt through openings in the varnish (scratches, impacts) or to a deficient application of varnish that does not comply with the application protocol of the technical data sheet.
To identify possible causes and how to avoid them, see FAQ “What are the causes for stains in the MORTEX® product and how to avoid them ?”

Attempts can be made to clean the stains by means of capillary action exerted by the application of several layers of absorbent paper (see in this FAQ the technique of cleaning by capillary action).

However, if the result is not satifying, there is, a priori, no other solution than to sand the surface with a diamond tool which will remove the varnish. It will then be necessary to sand the upper part of the MORTEX® coating until the stain completely disappears. A new layer of MORTEX® coating will then be applied, perfectly smoothing the surface of the coating, to avoid repeating the same problem. In certain cases, MORTEX COLOR 2-F2 can make smoothing easier.
After the MORTEX® coating has dried (see technical data sheet available on www.bealinternational.com), apply the chosen protection according to the technical installation instructions.
Attention: if you are in a waterproofing technique for a shower, you will have to reapply the missing parts to the system of the two coats of MORTEX COLOR 2-N coating.

(Also see FAQ “What are the different MORTEX® systems”)

A flexible perimeter seal (e.g. between walls and floors, floors and joinery, etc.), type MS polymer (suitable for natural stone and glass) is recommended to compensate for movement due to the expansion of the material. The use of a seal base is recommended.
These flexible seals do not leave any marks on the MORTEX® coating or on other materials, unlike a conventional silicone. MS Polymer offers the advantage of being watertight. This type of seal is used for seals likely to experience movement (expansion, etc.).
The flexible seal must be applied before oil protection.
It is best to stop the MORTEX® coating 3 mm from the shower tray with a stop angle and then fill the gap with an MS Polymer seal.
Follow the installation operation carefully. Use a seal base if necessary.
A MS Polymer seal must also be applied around the water inlets (no special round stop profiles are available for this application).

The flexible seal must be checked and replaced if necessary.

Yes.
In any case, cleaning is necessary to make the surface sound and clean.
It is imperative to completely remove the protection present on the MORTEX® coating if there is one.
For protection products with impregnation, the material must be sanded down to the penetration depth of the protection.
The application of RESIDUR primer is not mandatory, but will facilitate the installation of the new MORTEX® coating layer.

The technical data sheet of each product must be strictly observed during application.

To meet this demand, BEAL has developed the range of MORTEX COLOR 2-F1, F2, F3 and F4 coatings.
Applied with a polycarbonate plaster, they give little effect. The F1 and F2 series is more particularly intended for floors, as a finish. The F3 and F4 series is more particularly intended for walls and ceilings.
Transparency effects are also possible if it is “pulled” very hard (MORTEX COLOR-F4 plaster). On the other hand, too many manipulations with the tool can cause effects.
Traces of reworking may become visible if the complete surface coating has not been applied “fresh in fresh” or if the pigmentation of the mixture is not identical.
The MORTEX COLOR 2-N coating has been formulated for the self-creation of effects and marks that the craftsman may wish to leave as an imprint to “mark” his passage. This allows some gifted and experienced craftsmen to create peculiarities that only them can achieve and this is the side sought after in MORTEX® coatings, both for the satisfaction of the final customer and for the one who applies it.

In terms of application, a private customer could apply his own MORTEX® product for small surfaces.
In practice, for larger surfaces, this is not always feasible.
Some private individuals can obtain better results than some professionals. This is also valid in other areas.
The MORTEX® product indeed requires a certain dexterity in the use of tools for the installation, depending on the desired finish.

“INITIATION” trainings are planned to get to know the product, please consult our agenda on www.bealtraining.com

Always work on a stable, clean and dust-free surface.
When in doubt, use the BEALTEX reinforcing fabric to be laid in a sandwich (between two layers).
Fibreglass or our BEALTEX reinforcing fabric does not offer a full guarantee of results, as it will only be able to withstand very slight movements.
It is the reinforcement mesh (reinforced textile net) that will stretch, taking up the effort of the movement of the support. The MORTEX® product will then experience tensions that may cause several micro cracks instead of one large on the location of the initial crack of the support. The MORTEX® coating is flexible but not elastic.
It is always difficult to treat live cracks without going through the steps “substrate modification” box. That is why the expansion joints in the MORTEX® coating must always be respected by an expansion seal in the substrate.

Causes for the stains
When the MORTEX® product is applied in a very structured manner with the formation of micro cavities of varying sizes, penetrations of fatty liquids or other liquids are possible at these openings.

These places are indeed weak points for the coating and its protection. It is essential to treat these cavities carefully to avoid possible penetrations. If the protective products (varnishes, oils, etc…) are applied by means of a normal treatment (roller or brush…), they will not penetrate these cavities, as these products are too thick. It is imperative to push them by tapping with the brush/paintbrush to treat the edges of these cavities as well as the bottom.

We therefore experience a lateral capillarity phenomenon at these places, from underneath the protection, causing a stained substrate. The latter can only dry through the small openings formed by the micro-cavities in question. Grease can never escape.

For “technical” layers (floors, showers, etc…), the presence of an open-pored support (cavities) is already an application deficiency. This weakness impedes the tightness of the system and will tend to clog up in these areas.

The presence of stains in some places and not in others proves that the protection (varnish or other) is effective where it is well applied.

The stains are only present in places that have not received protection. It is therefore imperative to dab the varnish or other protection into these small untreated cavities. These untreated cavities should of course always be avoided.

Smooth surfaces can also be affected if the protection is not applied correctly.

The right application to avoid stains
We therefore always recommend that a sample be taken and validated to determine the finish (structured, smooth, etc.) according to the future use of the site.

E.g.: for a shower and/or a worktop, we always recommend a smooth finish to avoid clogging and facilitate maintenance.

It should be taken into account that these cavities are sometimes difficult to protect because some of them communicate through their bottom. It is in these cavities that dirt (dirt, soap, cleaning residues, oily products, hair dyes, flour, butter, etc.) will settle. The micro-cavities create a possible passage for water.

It is therefore essential to seal the surfaces carefully, avoiding the presence of large micro-cavities, and to apply the protection according to the rules of the art

Please refer to the MORTEX® product data sheet (available on www.bealinternational.com) and the training syllabus (available in training).
Reminder: In a shower, apply the MORTEX product in a perfectly smooth way so that the surface is absolutely pore-free (microcavities).
This allows a better application of the protection and also to avoid incrustations of soap residues, limestone, …
Another advantage is the ease of cleaning. Please refer to the sheet “How to maintain the MORTEX®”.
Then apply the appropriate protection (see the technical data sheet available on www.bealinternational.com).

Many bathtubs have been successfully made.
However, we do not recommend this type of construction for various reasons.

1. Causes of soiling
Fouling of the MORTEX COLOR 2-N coating is caused by a structured or highly structured finish. The MORTEX® product allows and accepts a wide range of applications, from super smooth to smooth, structured or even highly structured. The smoother the finish (closed), the lower the risk of soiling, as there are fewer micro-cavities for the deposit of fine dust.
For “technical” coatings (floors, showers, etc.), having an open-pore substrate (cavities) is already a deficiency in the application. This weakness hinders the waterproofing of the system, and the latter will tend to clog up in these areas.
In the case of structured floors, the dirt will tend to become marked more quickly, which is logical (the same can be said for all deep joints in tiles, travertine tiles, etc.).
The soiling will also be deeper in case of irregular, quick and/or superficial cleaning, which is normal. As the dirt builds up, it will become more tenacious because it will be in the form of dried sludge after the cleaning water has passed through.

2. How to avoid soiling?
To prevent the coating from becoming dirty over time, smooth, well-protected finishes are ideal.
We always advise the installer to provide the end customer with a sample (minimum 80 cm x 80 cm) to be submitted for acceptance before starting the job.
Requests for structured floors in areas that are relatively prone to soiling (garden entrances, etc.) are not recommended.
On the last technical coat of MORTEX COLOR 2-N, a coat of MORTEX COLOR 2-F2 can be applied, which, being thinner, favours smooth and more closed finishes (without micro cavities).
The contractor (craftsman applicator) will take care to ensure that the appropriate protection penetrates any micro-cavities in the coating.

3. Cleaning
If all the precautions described above have not been respected during the installation of the MORTEX COLOR coating, a fouling may have been created in the pores and micro-cavities left in the coating. This is an accumulation of fine dust that settles to the bottom of the cavities and will not be removed when water is first applied to the surface!
To obtain a thorough cleaning, we recommend moistening the surface with water at room temperature. The capillary action of the dirt should be allowed to act for the necessary minutes so that it softens and can be more easily removed by lightly wiping with a soft brush, which will remove the residue that can be picked up by a cloth.
Repeat the operation if necessary.

Yes, this type of heating technique is fully compatible with MORTEX. As with other types of coatings, precautions must be taken to ensure correct operation, with regard to the substrate and temperature management.

Substrate
For application, the screed must be dry and clean (see technical data sheet on www.bealinternational.com) and the heating must be switched off 4 days before application.
When the substrate is made up of materials of a different nature, which are not stable and/or have joints (e.g. tiles, OPAL system, etc.), it is imperative to take the necessary precautions to avoid, as far as possible, any movement due to expansion, differences in surface and internal stresses and shearing, i.e. to choose :
– Reinforcing net or reinforced textile mat at junctions
– Reinforcement net to be embedded in the first technical layer.
– Special textile mortar adhesion mat in the corners
– Uncoupling membranes over the entire surface

Temperatures
As with conventional underfloor heating, the maximum temperature should be 28-30°C.
Start-up (in steps of 2 to 3°C per 48 hours above the substrate temperature) once the MORTEX® product is completely dry (minimum 7 days). After the heating system has been switched off, the product is always put back into service by temperature increase in steps of 2 to 3°C / 48 hours.

The substrate must be sound, dry before and after installation, clean, matt, dust-free and non-greasy. It must be hard, non-freezing and non-floury.
MORTEX® COLOR 2 adheres to a multitude of substrates:
– Mineral substrates: mortars, screeds, concrete, masonry plaster, cement-based coatings, frosted tiles, etc…
– Reconstituted wood or water-repellent agglomerated substrates such as MDF (Medium).
– Polystyrene or polyurethane panels with a reinforced cement coating or fibre cement panels.
– Plaster, normal or water-repellent plasterboard.
– Tests on glass and metal have also been successfully carried out.
For any other substrate, perform tests. Plastic coatings are to be avoided.
When the substrate is made up of materials of a different nature, unstable and/or with joints (e.g. tiles), it is imperative to take the necessary precautions to avoid, as far as possible, any movement due to expansion, surface and internal tension differences and shearing – please choose from the following options :
– Reinforcing net or reinforced textile mat at junctions
– Reinforcement net to be embedded in the 1st technical layer.
– Special mortar adhesion textile mat in the corners
– Uncoupling membranes on the entire surface
It is essential to make sure that the support is stable. In case of doubt, consult us. A test is always advised.

For washbasins and hand-washing basins, the MORTEX coating can be recommended. The results are magnificent.
The protection requirements must absolutely be respected by the end customer. (Also see FAQ “How to maintain the MORTEX product”).

Two coats of MORTEX® à fresco means that the first coat is still fresh when the second coat is applied, but is already hardening. The markers showing the adequate state to pass the second coat are :
– The palm of the hand on the Mortex® coating should not stain the hand anymore.
– However, with a slight effort and a circular movement, the finger can still enter the MORTEX® coating.

MORTEX coatings 2-N, F1, F2, F3, F4:
– Unprotected : maintenance and uniform cleaning up without a mordant agent
– Protected : refer to the relevant specific MORTEX product technical data sheet
For keeping clean: FINISH SA TR diluted in water
To eliminate limescale: refer to FAQ “How do I remove limescale from my MORTEX® coating ?”
Protections Polythane N120, FINISH SA, Oil OH, Bipur, Repeloil, Bealwax: refer to the relevant specific MORTEX product technical data sheet

Minimum 48 hours at 20°C in normal conditions. The MORTEX® product must be sufficiently “hard” throughout its thickness and its adhesion must be sufficient to withstand the stresses of any polishing.

• Sand the protection by entering the MORTEX® product until the stains disappear.
• Allow damp stains to dry. Ventilate the room well and observe the disappearance of the stains.
• If necessary, apply the missing coats by checking their thickness (by respecting the application protocol in the technical data sheets available on www.bealinternational.com ).
• Apply the protection in due form according to the installation protocol.
Never add a protective coating on a stain as this will lock in the stain, preventing its removal later.

If you only sand the protection, there will always be a risk of having residues in the small cavities of the MORTEX® coating. That is why we advise to sand by entering the MORTEX® product in order to obtain a MORTEX® coating free of any protection.
Furthermore, if there is still some protection product left in the micro-cavities of the MORTEX® product, you will have darker stains in the places where the old protection has become embedded. You will have the impression that there are two or three coats, whereas you have only applied one.

On request, Beal can recommend the most qualified applicators in your area. To do this, please complete the application form on our website. (LINK)
The applicators in our list have proven their competence through several perfectly executed projects. Of course, this list is indicative, non-exhaustive, and is continuously updated according to the feedbacks from the projects.
Before starting your work, we advise you to always ask your applicator for a sample including the protection to see the rendering of the product and to check that it perfectly corresponds to your expectations. Effects and shades can be expected after the product is applied.
As a reminder, please specify beforehand the use of the room in order to receive the best advice from your applicator.

Many bathtubs have been successfully made,
However, we do not recommend this type of construction for various reasons.

If, for one reason or another (e.g. changing the colour of the coating or carrying out a repair), the BEALWAX must be removed, it has to be done with clean, white cotton cloths with a light addition of turpentine. Coloured cloths can fade and cause stains.
Apply a small amount of turpentine to a specific area and rub the cloth over to remove the wax. Repeat the operation until there is no more wax on the cloth.
If the MORTEX® product is structured and not perfectly flat, it will not be possible to remove all the BEALWAX in the small cavities. This BEALWAX that is still present will cause a detachment of a MORTEX® coating applied on top of it.
In this case, we advise you to slightly abrade the entire surface to remove all possible BEALWAX residues. The abraded surface and the direct environment must then be thoroughly cleaned and dusted.
In order to facilitate the application of the MORTEX® product, a coat of RESIDUR primer must first be applied and allowed to dry.

The chosen protection will then be applied in accordance with the installation protocol described in the technical data sheets available on www.bealinternational.com .

To remove any traces of limescale/scale on your MORTEX® coating, you can use white spirit vinegar diluted in lukewarm water which you spray on and leave for a few minutes before wiping with a soft sponge.

Consult our complete maintenance sheet on www.bealmortex.be.
(Link to sheet)

The Mortex® coating has a very good slip resistance (up to R13 with shoes on and up to A+B+C barefoot). When protection is applied, this resistance can be modified.
Please consult our technical data sheet.

Depending on the future use of the work you can choose one or the other protection listed in the table below:

See our advices for protections.

Always refer to the corresponding technical data sheets before use.
For the maintenance of your protection, please refer to the FAQ “How to maintain MORTEX® coating and its protections “.

In order to obtain a mixture that has the desired technical qualities, the following steps must rigorously be followed :
1. Mix component A thoroughly in its original jar with an appropriate mixing device different from the one to be used for component B. Always avoid air ingress by mixing too quickly.

2. Mix component B in its original container with a different mixing device than the one used for component A. Always avoid air ingress by mixing too quickly.

3. Prepare a third clean container.

4. Using a syringe A, accurately draw off the required quantity of component A and pour it into the third container.

5. Using a syringe B different from syringe A, accurately draw off the required amount of component B and pour it into the third container.

6. Mix everything thoroughly. Always avoid air ingress by mixing too quickly.

7. Once the mixture has been mixed, pour it into a clean fourth container, taking care to scrape the edges of the third container.

8. Mix the content of the fourth container well again. Always avoid adding air by mixing too quickly.

9. Wait a moment for any air bubbles to rise.

10. The BIPUR:POLYTHANE N120 is ready for application.

11. Follow the specific instructions for the application of the varnish in question (drying time between coats, etc.).

Consult the technical data sheets available on www.bealinternational.com

1. Identify the cause
Water insidiously infiltrates through a micro-crack, a hole or any other opening in the MORTEX® coating. This water infiltrates more or less slowly.

It is drawn up by capillary action into the support, making it swell (e.g. plaster) and can create certain other disorders such as salts. The result is the detachment of the MORTEX® coating with its primer.

In a wet room, the junction between the floor and the walls with the MORTEX® coating is very important.

How can an impermeable connection be achieved with the MORTEX® product in the corners and recesses?

Always execute the corners in the same operation, using the staircase method or a chamfer.

If necessary, use a flexible MS polymer sealant. See FAQ “What type of flexible expansion seal can be used between MORTEX® coatings or between the MORTEX® coating and another material?”

Never join fresh plaster to dry plaster to avoid the risk of creating micro-gaps that do not ensure the impermeability of the system and cause the above-mentioned problems.

2. How to repair ?

Remove all parts that are not adherent or deformed by humidity as well as all parts that do not allow for a technically waterproof and aesthetic repair.

Allow to dry thoroughly.

If necessary, repair the substrate.

Let it dry for the necessary time depending on the repair products used.

From a technical point of view, it is always advisable to repair the entire wall with MORTEX® plaster, even if partial repairs have already been successfully carried out.

It is difficult to carry out very local repairs unless you are an expert or have a very elaborate MORTEX® coating, both in colour and structure.

As MORTEX® offers a wide range of aesthetic possibilities, it is generally not necessary to add paint.
In addition to the technical MORTEX® coatings, there are specially developed MORTEX coatings with very fine textures to add the aesthetic touch you desire. See the MORTEX COLOR 2-F1, F2, F3 and F4 coatings.
If this is the case, the physical properties of the MORTEX® product are similar to those of most stones. You should ask your paint supplier on which surface it can be applied.
In some cases (BEALWAX product, etc.), it will be highly advisable to remove the protection present on the MORTEX® coating if there is one.
In all cases, cleaning is necessary to make the surface healthy and clean.
The MORTEX® coating allows water vapour diffusion (µ=99). This must be taken into account when choosing the type of paint to be applied so as not to disturb water migration and create problems.

NB: it is also possible to place MORTEX® coating on paint.

Although the MORTEX® product is waterproof in its mass, it behaves like most natural stones (microporous surface). Therefore, a protective finish for stains (wine, grease, etc.) is recommended indoors: varnish, oil, oil-wax, water repellent, etc.

Also see FAQ “Which protection should be applied to the MORTEX® coating ?”

In all cases, we recommend that you carry out tests and samples beforehand in order to validate the appropriate finish and protection.

Repairs can be made with MC 2-F1-F2-F3-F4 depending on the width of the cracks. One of these products must be able to penetrate with its full grain size.

Please take into account that the finer the grain size curve, the whiter the powder of the MORTEX® product, F4 being the finest grain size.

Example: repair of a micro-crack using a mixture of MC2-F4 tinted in the colour of the job site.

1. Vacuum dust from the crack or micro-crack and clean with water if necessary.

2. Wait for complete drying.

3. Make a test on a board for colour control (comparison test) after waiting for the F4 to dry completely.

4. Then, place this test board on your support to compare the result (without forgetting that you will still varnish it).

5. Treat this test with the protection applied (BIPUR – BEALWAX – POLYTHANE N 120,…) on the building site to give the final real colour. The protection can indeed still bring changes in colour.

6. After processing your sample board, repeat the tint check.

7. Repeat the operation if the result is not positive. You can carry out several shade tests at the same time. This will save you time.

8. When you reach the desired shade, make a small mixture with the right proportion of BEALCRYL 2.

9. Place a small quantity of the made mixture on the tip of a gloved finger, place this finger on the crack and insert the MORTEX COLOR-F4 product by twisting the finger so that the material penetrates the crack.

10. Wait 48 hours for drying.

11. Apply the protection according to the installation protocol.

Overfilling the crack can help to hide stains in the case of a speckled finish.

Also see FAQ “How can we try to reduce the appearance of cracks due to movement in the MORTEX® coating?”

When stubborn stains appear on a substrate and especially on the MORTEX® product, the capillary suction system can be tried.

After trying to clean with a soft brush and soapy water :
1. Moisten the stain for at least 10 minutes with lukewarm water.
2. Remove the water.
3. Moisten again.
4. Place several sheets of absorbent paper one at a time, one on top of the other, flat on the stain, overlapping by 10 cm. 10 to 20 sheets may be needed.
5. Moisten all the layers well and expel the air so that the sheets of paper are flat and in perfect contact with the surface.
6. Allow to dry naturally without intervening. Do not create a draught.
7. As the surface dries, the pores of the paper open up and the capillaries exert suction which tends to pull the dirt from the substrate and transfer it to the sheets of paper.
8. Remove the paper layers after they have dried completely.
9. Check the result.
10. Repeat if necessary.

If the stain comes from a small open cavity in the MORTEX® mineral product and the protection has not treated this cavity, the system will not be efficient as the suction can only concentrate on this small cavity and not on the entire stain.

Repeat the operation if necessary.

It is a layer of MORTEX COLOR 2-N with a thickness of between 1 mm and 1.5 mm with a minimum drying time of 8 hours and a maximum drying time of 24 hours before the possible application of a subsequent layer.
Also see FAQ “What are the different Mortex® systems?

It is the application of successive layers of MORTEX® coating with a drying time between 8h and 24h between each layer.

Realisations with the MORTEX® product have been made since 1990. They are still in excellent condition.
Naturally, this depends on the choice of the MORTEX® system according to the construction site as well as the application of the MORTEX® product, the choice of the type of protection and the maintenance that is dedicated to it.

No. The MORTEX® product has been specially designed to be applied in thin layers as described in the technical data sheets.

After laying a part of the floor, for example in one colour, place a Plexiglas strip of the thickness and length of the joint to be created. Fix the batten with dowels. Finish the installation of the MORTEX® coating that will end up against the placed lath.
24 hours later, lift the lath to separate it from the poured plaster.
Wait another 24 hours and then use the part already poured as formwork by placing a tape* of sufficient width on it in order to avoid soiling the surface with the new application of MORTEX® product in a different colour. Do not leave the tape* too long to avoid marking. Immediately after placing the tape*, apply the new MORTEX® coating against the old one. After plastering, remove the tape directly.
At the end of the work, it is advisable to carry out a light polishing on the whole surface and on the created joint between the different colors of MORTEX® products.
*Use an “ad hoc” tape.

There is no solution to this problem other than to remove the varnish mechanically.
This means sanding the surface with a diamond tool (grit between 100 and 150) to remove the varnish.

Be careful not to damage the MORTEX® coating layers. If this is the case, proceed with a new application of the MORTEX® coating according to the application protocols.

Be careful to remove the varnish in any cavities.

If for any reason (e.g. changing the colour of the coating or carrying out a repair) it is necessary to remove this waxed aspect, the best solution is to remove it mechanically (provided that the wax is completely dry) by abrading the treated surface with a diamond disc (grain size between 100 and 150).

(You can go directly to point 3 if the wax is very hard).

1. Clean the surface with turpentine and a white cotton cloth to remove as much wax as possible.
2. Use a vaporetto style steam cleaner to try again to remove as much wax residue as possible.
3. Abrade/sand the surface so that there are no wax residue left.
Please note that if any traces of wax remain, the varnish will not adhere to these areas, and the shower will not be waterproof. It is therefore necessary to make sure that everything is removed, which is a rather delicate operation.
4. Vacuum and clean the surface thoroughly to remove all traces of dust.
5. After complete drying, apply the chosen protection according to the method recommended by Beal.
Reservation: after point 3, traces of well dried and hardened wax may remain throughout the surface. The varnish should in principle be able to stick to it, but we have no test in this respect.
Sanding should normally be done with a diamond disc. This can damage the Mortex. In this case, remove a part of the Mortex coating to a depth of about 0.5 mm. Apply a coat of MORTEX COLOR 2-N followed by a smooth layer of MORTEX COLOR 2-F1.

If the MORTEX product is structured and not perfectly flat, it will not be possible to remove all the wax from the small cavities without attacking the last layer of MORTEX product.

We therefore recommend abrading the entire surface until a perfectly flat surface is obtained, without open pores.

The abraded surface and the direct environment must be cleaned and dusted thoroughly.
After applying and allowing a coat of RESIDUR primer to dry, a new coat of MORTEX product will be applied to the substrate.

The latter will be treated, according to the installation protocol, with the chosen protection.
If fresh wax is present, tests can be carried out with turpentine.

If for any reason (e.g. changing the colour of the coating or carrying out a repair) it is necessary to remove this oiled aspect, the best solution is to remove it mechanically (provided that the oil is completely dry) by abrading the treated surface with a diamond disc (grain size between 100 and 150).

(You can go directly to point 3 if the oil is very hard).

1. Clean the surface with turpentine and a white cotton cloth to remove as much oil as possible.
2. Use a vaporetto style steam cleaner to try again to remove as much oil residue as possible.
3. Abrade/sand the surface so that there are no oil residue left.
Please note that if any traces of oil remain, the varnish will not adhere to these areas, and the shower will not be waterproof. It is therefore necessary to make sure that everything is removed, which is a rather delicate operation.
4. Vacuum and clean the surface thoroughly to remove all traces of dust.
5. After complete drying, apply the chosen protection according to the method recommended by Beal.
Reservation: after point 3, traces of well dried and hardened oil may remain throughout the surface. The varnish should in principle be able to stick to it, but we have no test in this respect.
Sanding should normally be done with a diamond disc. This can damage the Mortex. In this case, remove a part of the Mortex coating to a depth of about 0.5 mm. Apply a coat of Mortex Color 2-N followed by a smooth layer of Mortex Color 2-F1.

If the MORTEX product is structured and not perfectly flat, it will not be possible to remove all the oil from the small cavities without attacking the last layer of MORTEX product.

We therefore recommend abrading the entire surface until a perfectly flat surface is obtained, without open pores.

The abraded surface and the direct environment must be cleaned and dusted thoroughly.
After applying and allowing a coat of RESIDUR primer to dry, a new coat of MORTEX product will be applied to the substrate.

The latter will be treated, according to the installation protocol, with the chosen protection.
If fresh oil is present, tests can be carried out with turpentine.

If for any reason (e.g. changing the colour of the coating or carrying out a repair) it is necessary to remove this oil-repellent aspect, the best solution is to remove it mechanically (provided that the oil-repellent is completely dry) by abrading the treated surface with a diamond disc (grain size between 100 and 150).

(You can go directly to point 3 if the oil-repellent is very hard).

1. Clean the surface with turpentine and a white cotton cloth to remove as much oil-repellent as possible.
2. Use a vaporetto style steam cleaner to try again to remove as much oil-repellent residue as possible.
3. Abrade/sand the surface so that there are no oil-repellent residue left.
Please note that if any traces of oil-repellent remain, the varnish will not adhere to these areas, and the shower will not be waterproof. It is therefore necessary to make sure that everything is removed, which is a rather delicate operation.
4. Vacuum and clean the surface thoroughly to remove all traces of dust.
5. After complete drying, apply the chosen protection according to the method recommended by Beal.
Reservation: after point 3, traces of well dried and hardened oil-repellent may remain throughout the surface. The varnish should in principle be able to stick to it, but we have no test in this respect.
Sanding should normally be done with a diamond disc. This can damage the Mortex. In this case, remove a part of the Mortex coating to a depth of about 0.5 mm. Apply a coat of MORTEX COLOR 2-N followed by a smooth layer of MORTEX COLOR 2-F1.

If the MORTEX product is structured and not perfectly flat, it will not be possible to remove all the oil-repellent from the small cavities without attacking the last layer of MORTEX product.

We therefore recommend abrading the entire surface until a perfectly flat surface is obtained, without open pores.

The abraded surface and the direct environment must be cleaned and dusted thoroughly.
After applying and allowing a coat of RESIDUR primer to dry, a new coat of MORTEX product will be applied to the substrate.

The latter will be treated, according to the installation protocol, with the chosen protection.
If fresh oil-repellent is present, tests can be carried out with turpentine.

Bubbles in a product such as varnish, lacquer, paint, etc. can be caused by :

– mixing too quickly. Air enters the product at this point. This air comes out after application as long as the product is not dry. The air may even be trapped before it reaches the surface.

– mixing a product that is too cold. If, for example, a 5kg pot of varnish is cold, the viscosity is different and it will be more difficult for the bubbles to rise to the surface. This can also happen even if the mixing is done slowly. There will always be bubbles.

When applying a varnish at the right temperature to a substrate that is too cold, the same phenomenon will occur. The viscosity of a liquid increases as the temperature drops. So the lower the temperature, the thicker the product.
Bubbles can be trapped in the varnish if it is not fresh enough. (if the potlife is exceeded).

Note: a 5 kg package of varnish needs several hours to reach the temperature of the room and of the to-be-applied surface.
The same rule applies to the temperature of the substrate.
Sometimes, at the end of a job, we go and fetch the pot of varnish that was left in the van outside (colder temperature) and think that in a few minutes or an hour the liquid mass of varnish will reach the right temperature. This is not the case!

An ideal temperature for varnishes to be applied properly is between 12 and 25°C for most clear varnishes and sometimes between 10 and 30°C.
It also depends on the ambient humidity.
The higher the temperature, the greater the fluidity.

These rules are supposed to be known by professionals in the sector.

Yes, under the following conditions:
– The mineral support (concrete block, rough concrete walls) or cementing material must be in perfect condition, clean and sound and not detached.
– If it leaks, it is likely to experience failures which may be due to ageing or cracks caused by movement.
– If it is only a problem of cracks, filling them with our MORTEX RAPID + product may be sufficient.
– The French degree (water hardness) is also important to know.

The MORTEX COLOR 2-N product can be suitable under these precautions. Use in three coats of 1 to 1.5 mm applied with a brush in crossed layers.
Be careful, the minimum thickness of the groove left by the brush must be at least 1 mm thick.
Your pond must be made of concrete or cement blocks. It must be clean and healthy. The structure must be stable to prevent any cracks from appearing.

The product can be used for ponds with freshwater ornamental fish.

Attention: the MORTEX COLOR 2-N product has not been tested for “drinking water”.

Choice of the MORTEX® coating protection in extreme humidity conditions:

There are different types of hammams, wellness spas, Turkish baths, etc…

In order to choose the right protection for the MORTEX® coating in extreme conditions, a distinction must be made between private and public spaces because the use, maintenance and hygiene standards for each case will be different.

Hammams are spaces with high temperature and concentrated humidity, with little or forced ventilation. A disadvantage is the rapid proliferation of fungi, hence the importance of a maintenance protocol that is as continuous as possible.
The use of neutral pH products is recommended for regular cleaning, which should be daily in the case of public spaces. Alkaline pH products can be used for specific, one-off and rapid actions (without leaving deposits on the surface for too long). A preliminary test is always recommended.

In general, the join between the MORTEX® covering and another material will be made by means of a flexible sealant (special for natural stone and resistant to high temperatures) in order to ensure watertightness if expansion occurs. The absence of a flexible sealant between the Mortex covering and another material can cause a crack or gap after a slight expansion. This will lead to hydration of the material by changing colour under the protection applied and cause subsequent damage.
This hydration problem of the MORTEX® coating is recurrent if the substrate is damaged and/or the protection deteriorates. The flexible sealant requires regular inspection and must be replaced if necessary.

On all the proposed protections, a final coat of machine polished BEALwax can be applied. This will give the protection a longer life. This wax layer will be renewed over time depending on use.

After the cleaning step, a maintenance step with FINISH SA/TR is recommended. In a 5Lt bucket of hot water, mix a handful of FINISH SA/TR and using a cloth or mop apply a coat over the entire area before any new use.

Bipur :
Especially suitable for new areas, renovations and transformations, provided that the substrate has not previously been protected with oils, greasy products or water-oil repellent products.
Cleaning is relatively easy and should always be done using pH-neutral products (e.g. FINISH SA: 1 handful in 5 litres of clean, lukewarm water.

The best protection is two coats “a fresco” (once dry to the touch) and a third coat at least 12 hours later.
This protection is ideal for private areas, where the frequency of use is once a week.
Cleaning should be carried out after each use to prevent the use of acid-based body products from damaging the protection through extended exposure.

Polythane N 120 :
More resistant to scratches and chemical attacks than Bi-pur, it behaves in much the same way.
The disadvantage of the solvent is the very strong and harmful odour during application. An adhesion problem can be caused by negative humidity trapped under the varnish, which would eventually loosen the protection.
Cleaning must be carried out regularly to prevent the use of acid-based body products from damaging the protection through extended exposure.

Oïl OH/TR :
This is the least complicated protection in terms of both application and maintenance. However, it is the one that will require the most continuous cleaning and maintenance.
A risk of chromatic variation may occur during use. This variation may be due to washing off the protection by temperature and/or water, body perspiration and/or body oils.
Cleaning should always be done with neutral or high Ph products for the occasional elimination of fungi, followed by a clear water rinse.

No protection :
The MORTEX® coating perfectly behaves in this environment, hydrating during use and drying out afterwards.
There is the risk, and it often happens, that the material will become coloured due to body oils, perspiration and other used products. Gradually, with use, this colouring will become completely homogenised over the entire coating.
Cleaning should occur daily in case of public areas and after use in private areas. Cleaning should be done by spraying a neutral Ph soap, brushing with a semi-rigid or even rigid bristle brush, leaving to work and rinsing with clear water or with a pressure washer at a distance of 1 m and on specific spots, up to 15 cm (minimum) from the surface.

Directly after application, the tile joint spectra appear through the MORTEX® coating.
It is best to apply another coat of MORTEX® product after 48 hours of drying.
To avoid the appearance of spectra, a mesh should be laid over the first technical layer (or embedded in this first layer).
It is possible that these spectra appear later if the thickness of the different layers of the MORTEX® system is not sufficient.

The MORTEX® can be placed on the flue wall of your chimney, the temperature must not exceed 40-50°C.
There is no specific preparation required for your chimney flue but well one specific to your substrate.
If the substrate is porous and mineral, the suitable primer will be the Residur.

Varnish or oil protection is possible.

See table

Furniture: INTERIOR application of MORTEX coating on wood panels.
This technique is not suitable for showers, steam rooms, wet areas or similar.
Please note: depending on the thickness of the MORTEX coating, the size of the surfaces to be covered and the way it is assembled, the same number of coats may be required on the front and back of the panels. We always recommend stainless steel screws.

1. Dusting and cleaning of the surfaces.
2. Prepare the joints between panels that are to be invisible (see FAQ “MORTEX PANELS”). A reinforcing fabric may not be sufficient. The joint may be marked by bevelling each side of the adjoining panels.
3. Bevel the outgoing corners with the thickness of the chosen MORTEX product system according to the work’s destination. This will ensure a perfect angle with the material.
4. Application of the corresponding PRIMER according to the porosity and structure of the panels.
– RESIDUR for porous surfaces such as MDF (Medium), OSB etc.
– RESIPACT G for smooth, shiny surfaces that have been sanded beforehand for the PRIMER to adhere.
5. Application of the chosen MORTEX coating as a first coat.
6. Make a slight chamfer in the inside corners to avoid water ingress in wet rooms (e.g. bathrooms).
7. Apply the second coat.
8. Then apply several layers of protection depending on the purpose of the work and the customer’s choice.
In case of doubt, please contact us.

OSB, MDF and similar boards.
In an attempt to avoid cracks due to movement and/or expansion of the substrate, it is possible to place the MORTEX product on an OSB / MDF floor. To do this, we recommend gluing and screwing (stainless steel screws to prevent rust) two layers of OSB / MDF boards, crossing them (1st layer from left to right and 2nd layer perpendicularly), as shown below.

here flooring diagram

Next, an uncoupling membrane will be pressed into the first technical layer of MC2-N. This will provide greater stability in your floor and reduce the risk of cracks, although there is no such thing as zero risk.

It is of course the way in which these plates are placed and the quality of the work that will ensure the stability of this structure.
Of course, you can never be sure to avoid a very large movement.

Beal is the only manufacturer of the CAPILASIL® range of products and has registered the name. We advise you to beware of imitations and counterfeits, as they do not meet the same quality requirements.
BEAL INTERNATIONAL products, and in particular the MORTEX®, BEALSTONE® and CAPILASIL® products are protected products. They meet strict quality requirements for which BEAL INTERNATIONAL is committed to guaranteeing results. BEAL INTERNATIONAL is the sole manufacturer of its products.

The products are distributed by BEAL INTERNATIONAL and its distributors (official and unofficial). The points of sale are available on www.beal.be

Many competing companies seek to use the reputation of BEAL INTERNATIONAL and its products to mislead the consumer, not hesitating to use deceptive, misleading or disparaging means to market products of much lower quality or without authorisation. Please remain vigilant with regard to any counterfeiting or imitation and, if necessary, inform the management by e-mail via the address info@beal.be.

The CAPILASIL® range is a range of water repellents in aqueous and/or solvent phase.
CAPILASIL® water repellents are products based on oligomeric siloxanes in the form of very small molecules. These molecules therefore do not tend to block the pores. The most concentrated solution (10% active ingredients based on a 100% concentrate) only clogs the pores at a rate of 2%, which is perfectly negligible.
For solvent-based CAPILASIL®, always be careful not to come in contact with materials sensitive to solvents (insulation, roofing, asphalt, etc…).
CAPILASIL® in aqueous phase are to be avoided on already water-repellent surfaces, as the product is repellent to any waterproofed support.
Substrates must be dry before treatment for ideal penetration.
Spraying the product is not recommended (especially for solvent-based products). The water or organic solvents contained in these products will tend to evaporate and, consequently, will not perfectly play their role within the walls. In fact, water or solvents are the “transport” agents of the active ingredients that are essential in the substrate to allow an excellent diffusion, which will always be the basis of a perfectly successful treatment.
This is why we use heavy organic solvents (mostly aromatic ones) in solvent solutions, which, thanks to their slow evaporation, help the product to diffuse well into the support. This is an additional advantage for an efficient treatment.

Two different CAPILASIL® products for injection as well as for facade protection.
1. Solvent phase :
BEAL formulates CAPILASIL® in a solvent phase based on a concentration of active ingredients composed of oligomeric siloxanes (10% concentration) by means of a high quality and high performance, de-aromatised solvent.
Aromatics are largely eliminated, but some remain.
The solvent is heavy to allow diffusion to continue after injection. Then the solvent will evaporate and give way to the barrier created by the polymerisation of the oligomeric siloxane system.
The solvent is the transport agent of the product. It is non-polar so it does not mix with water. Initially, the solvent acts as a barrier and as soon as it evaporates, polymerisation takes place to form the real barrier (the barrier is effective on the day of injection). Any moisture present in the substrate is a factor which accelerates polymerisation.
Do not use this “solvent” base if solvent-sensitive elements are present in the walls, on the floor and underneath the screed or concrete, etc. In this case, use CAPILASIL HEH2O (water-based).

Heat (in cold periods) and ventilate the treated areas to evacuate evaporated solvents and humidity still present in the walls. The last aromatics still present in the products are naturally more odorous when heated. Storage heaters will therefore significantly increase the smell of the remaining aromatics (e.g. a cold sauce when heated will release its aromatics).

The drying time depends on the components of the wall coverings (paint, plaster, lime, cement, tiles, etc.), heating (cold periods) and ventilation. It therefore depends on the inhabitant of the premises.
In general, for uncovered walls, it takes from 6 months to a year and a half, or even longer. In the early stages of construction sites open to the wind (frames not placed), there was a rapid drying out period of around 2 and a half to three months.

2. Aqueous phase:
BEAL formulates CAPILASIL® HEH20 based on siloxanes diluted in water.
The advantage of this type of product is that it is completely odourless.
On the other hand, it should be noted that the injection will bring into the substrate a significant quantity of water necessary for the diffusion of the siloxanes. This water will also have to evaporate. Drying process will therefore be much longer than with a solvent-based product whose solvent evaporates more easily. There will also be a formation of additional salts since water is added in large quantities in an alkaline medium.

The barrier is not effective on the day of injection, but much later. Siloxanes start to polymerise as the water evaporates, therefore slowly. Polymerisation usually begins after one month and more quickly in periods of high heat.
There is also the risk that in the presence of increased rising damp, the barrier will rise and be diluted before polymerisation has taken place.

The polymerised siloxanes will then be effective after all the water in the products and walls has evaporated. Drying time depends on the components of the wall coverings (paint, plaster, lime, cement, tiles, etc.), heating (cold periods) and ventilation. It therefore depends on the inhabitant of the premises.
In general, for walls that are not covered, it takes from 6 months to two years.

On sites open to the wind (unplaced frames), much faster drying out has been observed. After 10 months, convincing results were observed.

All humidity problems are a result of capillary action, i.e. the action of capillaries in materials, except of course for direct water ingress.
Pay special attention to the way in which rising damp is announced to you by professionals!
There are indeed several devices on the market, the most sold is a device that lets power pass between two electrodes. Water being a “good conductor”, the measurement is taken on the dial and gives a scale corresponding to the percentage of humidity contained in the walls. It should be noted that it is not only water that is a conductor, but also salts, which are very often present in masonry: phosphates, sulphates, chlorides, etc.
So, electrode devices might not be suitable for obtaining convincing results in terms of humidity content. These devices work on the basis of a power passing between two electrodes. The wetter the medium, the higher the measurement. But it can also be misled by salts in a dry wall. Salts are conductive elements.
The only approved system is the CM method (Carbide Method). This device is available at BEAL office on the basis of a prior reservation for technical explanation and a deposit.
In some cases, chloride formation can be observed in houses along the roads, which receive water with de-icing salts or in houses in coastal marine areas.
In addition, nitrates can be formed from organic decomposition (farms, old stables, etc.). Beware also of bricks and porous reused materials which may contain nitrates depending on their origin.
Treatment against rising damp in this type of building is one of the first operations to be carried out to allow the walls to dry out more quickly, as the building is open to all winds.
Crystallisation of salts is a common phenomenon and these salts have a tendency to grow in volume, causing detachment of the finish and even bursts in the materials themselves.
All salts are hygroscopic and retain water. When treatments are carried out, which are effective in the injection zone, there may still be areas of masonry above the injection barrier containing salts, particularly nitrates. In case of high concentration, these salts can cause disorders (damp stains) in very specific places and this will no longer have anything to do with rising damp problems.
The presence of these salts can also be a very influential factor in determining the actual source of humidity.
After a rising damp treatment, water remaining in the walls must still be removed by evaporation. As salts are soluble, water acts as a “carrying agent” of the salts that remain on the surface when the water evaporates.
There are other systems to overcome this problem, for example the MORTEX NO3 coating. For more information on this problem, please contact us. Manufacturing to order depending on the availability of raw materials.
Walls contain capillaries and have a surface tension specific to the materials present. The role of a good injection product is to leave a very high vapour permeability, but to prevent water from migrating through the capillaries. This barrier is achieved by changing the different surface tensions of the materials. Water will no longer rise through the capillaries and will be blocked at the point where the treatment has been carried out.
CAPILASIL® fulfils this function perfectly.
When injected in accordance with the professional standards and the installation instructions, it will give full satisfaction. The formulation is based on oligomeric siloxanes (10% of active ingredients). This means that they are very small molecules that will only block a few pores, which is a very important characteristic.
Monomer-based silanes have even smaller molecules, but they are very volatile, so in order to have a concentration of around 10% of active materials on and in the walls, a product based on 30 to 40% of silane active materials would be needed. Polymers have a nasty tendency to block the pores because they have large molecules. They therefore block the pores and capillaries, greatly impeding vapour permeability.
Important: Salts, and in particular nitrates, can form a chain that allows humidity to continue to rise after a conventional treatment.
In order to avoid this major inconvenience, we propose a treatment with CAPILASIL HS (solvent phase) when the nitrate level exceeds 3.5 – 4%.
In order to carry out this measurement, please send us by post or bring us at least 10 g of wall dust (most humid and porous areas). This wall dust being taken every 6 metres of the same wall at the level of the future injection barrier. Ask for our conditions.
We will send you the results after analysis.
It should be noted that in some cases, the walls are thought to be affected by rising damp when it is simply a matter of capillary action of the joint or a lack of material between the skirting board and the tiles. This allows then cleaning water (or accidental damage from a liquid spilt on the floor) to penetrate through the solid or hollow joint up to the plastering, causing rising damp. This phenomenon is more significant if the last tile laid against the wall slopes slightly towards the wall. As the plastering is not very porous and the skirting board is watertight, water storage becomes more and more important with each cleaning and can cause damage similar to walls affected by the same phenomenon. In this case, a simple silicone sealant such as MS polymer can solve the problem. After placing the sealant, allow the wet materials to dry thoroughly before repainting.
If you would like to know more about rising damp injection products, please visit www.capilasil.com